春岸 Springbank

 

Please scroll down to the bottom for English version of tasting note. Thank you.

春岸是我對 Springbank 的譯名，Springbank 在華文地區是稱作雲頂的，但這酒廠可不是位處於甚麼雲頂高原，和 Springbank 這名字有也沒有任何關連，就好像不在高原沒有騎士的 Highland Park 一樣，令人費解。

Springbank 和 Glen Scotia 於坎貝爾鎮 Campbeltown 的酒業於二十世紀三十年代崩潰後便一直相依為命至今(有關 Glen Scotia 及坎貝爾鎮 Campbeltown 酒業的資料，請參閱"坎貝爾鎮 Campbeltown 威士忌“一文)，雖說是相依為命，但其實 Springbank 是有風光的一面，Springbank 的酒可是賣得頗貴，尤其是舊酒，其價錢在一手及二手市場上實在是貴得驚人，還要是有價兼有市的。

Springbank 於十九世紀初由 Archibald 及 Hugh 的 Mitchell 兄弟建立，直到今天，雖然已由 Springbank Distillers Ltd. 營運，但仍然是由 Mitchell 家族的 J&A Mitchell & Co Ltd 所持有，這和 Glenfarclas 一樣一直由創建的家族持有及營運的蒸餾廠，在今天可真是寥寥無幾。

雖則說 Springbank 的名聲及酒價比其鄰居 Glen Scotia 風光，但在惡劣的經濟大環境下，Springbank 也於二零零八年打算閉廠，但於二零零九年起回復有限度的生產，Springbank 現在已回復正常運作。

之前提及 Springbank 酒價有風光的一面，但其實是來自惡劣的現實。Springbank 的出品在飲家眼中是上佳之選，在 Springbank 於 Campeltown 苦鬥了多年，經歷過停產及減產，存酒長期不足，尤其是老酒，在供不應求下，便造成高昂的酒價了。

我這等窮 L 老酒是喝不起的了，還要在香港這個威士忌沙漠。來一瓶 Springbank 的入門版，作為認識這掙扎於褪色的世界威士忌之都多年而不倒的酒廠，是一個很好但其實無其他方案的選擇。

Springbank 10 years, 700 ml, 46%

氣味: 花蜜，梨子 ，堅果，烤穀物，淡然海風
口味: 蜂蜜，蘋果，堅果，黑朱古力，丁香，海鹽
餘蘊: 中等長度，麥芽糖，堅果殼，海水
結論: 氣味較淡，加水後梨子香氣溢出。酒體豐厚，油潤，同樣加水後果甜較明顯。餘蘊非常不錯，甘甜舒適。整體上表現較簡單，層次亦不算豐富，不過平衡度不錯，令人喝得舒服，飲得過之選。這十年陳的入門版，以高度數的 ABV 46% 裝瓶，酒廠還保留著幾近絕跡的地板發麥，誠意可嘉。雖則誠意比不上平靚正這三大消費原則，但這誠意是造就好酒的基礎。其實做人做事，如果可以用心去做打好基礎，雖則所謂一命二運三風水四積陰功五讀書，你所付出的努力未必保證將來一定會成功，但機會總是留給有準備的人的，共勉之。

English Version of Tasting Note

Springbank is one of the three distilleries in Campbeltown which are still in operations. Campbeltown used to claim as “The Capital of the Whisky World". Unfortunately, the whisky industry of this Capital was collapsing in 1930s and never resumes its golden age. In the following few decades there are only two distilleries survived , the Springbank and Glen Scotia, but until recently a reinstated distillery Glengyle joins the gang.

Though the situation of the whisky industry looks withered in Campbeltown, it does not mean the reputation of survivors being faded. In fact, for example of Springbank, its malt whisky is quite demanding and very expensive, especially those aged and old bottlings.

Springbank was established in 1800s by Archibald and Hugh the Mitchell brothers. Nowadays, Springbank is operating under the Springbank Distillers Ltd. but it is still owned by the Mitchell family. Springbank is one of very few left distilleries still owned by the founder family.

Despite of the high price and demanding of Springbank whisky that the prospect looks good, the reality that it was planned to shutdown in 2008 due to the bad economy. It however resumed limited production in 2009 and now its operation is fully resumed.

As aforesaid Springbank’s whisky is very expensive, the reason behind is a sad story. Springbank is highly praised by many connoisseurs and obviously its whisky shall be demanding but the fact that Springbank experienced several shutdowns and reductions of operation over the years that results in the supply, especially those aged casks, always at low stock level, where hardly meets the demand from the market which eventually it results in the high price of Springbank whisky.

I am unable to afford for old Springbank but to basic bottling. It is rather a good choice for meeting one of very few last standing distilleries in Campbeltown.

Springbank 10 years, 700 ml, 46%

Nose: Nectar, peer, nuts, baked grain, lightly sea breeze
Palate: Honey, apple, nuts, dark chocolate, clove, sea salt
Aftertaste: Medium length, maltose, nut shell, sea water
Overall: Light on nose, peer aroma released with water. Full body, oily, much fruity with water. Good aftertaste, sweet and nice. It is a bit simple and lesser complexity but good balanced of favours, a comfortable dram. Though it is just a 10 years old basic bottling, it is bottled at ABV 46% rather than common 40 and 43% by most distilleries. Springbank remains the floor malting process which is considering of high cost but low efficiency and almost faded out from the industry. I quoted these two pieces of information just to admire the sincerity of Springbank in whisky making. Working hard in good faith does not guarantee the success but it must be an essential element in those success stories.