說起泥煤風味的威士忌，很多飲家第一時間想起的，應該會是艾娜島 Isle of Islay 吧! 其實泥煤風味不是艾娜島獨有，蘇格蘭其他海島如 Talisker 和 Highland Park，甚至主島上也會有生產泥煤風味的威士忌，較為人熟悉的有 Ardmore，坎貝爾城 Campbeltown 的 Springbank 也有的哦! 離開了蘇格蘭，好些其他地區酒廠，日本和台灣等，也會釀製泥煤風味的威士忌，畢竟產品多樣化，對應多變市場是有利的。而且潮流興泥煤，要喝泥煤威士忌才算是內行，泥煤派掌門達人等爭奪泥煤盟主寶座，好不熱鬧!酒商是聰明的，有商機豈會放過呢?

以上的泥煤門純屬笑話，各位專業品飲家及達人們請不要介懷。還是入正題，說說瑞士的泥煤風味威士忌吧。

前文介紹的瑞士威士忌 Säntis Malt，原來亦有生產泥煤風味的威士忌，採用的泥煤，還是來自當地近沼澤地帶的，意想不到吧!到底這北陸瑞士高地泥煤風味威士忌，和我們熟悉的蘇格蘭海島區威士忌，喝起來會有甚麼分別呢? 以下介紹的這瑞士威士忌，是 Säntis Malt 的常規酒款，除了是泥煤風味外，竟然還是桶裝濃度的，真令人期待，來，喝吧!

Säntis Malt Edition Dreifaltigkeit Cask Strength Peated, 700 ml, 52%

氣味： 煙燻，煙肉，焦糖，拖肥，藥草，塑膠
口味： 中式臘肉，燻鴨，煙燻箱，啡糖，咖啡
餘蘊： 悠長，煙燻，煙肉，咖啡渣
評語： 蜜味烤煙肉，伴一杯焦糖朱古力，但塑膠呢？煙燻和肉類氣味稍退後乾燥草本呈現。酒體有力，很油，很煙，很肉，誇張點說是液體煙肉。悠長餘蘊，仍然是煙燻肉質，加上烘焙的咖啡渣苦味。估不到這內陸高山的威士忌的“泥煤感”直迫蘇格蘭的海島出品，只是沒有了海洋的味道。整體上表現不錯，厚實豐富，不過很膩亦有稜角，一款既煙且油又肉的重口味的酒，適合好此道人士，非常值得一嘗。

Säntis Malt Edition Dreifaltigkeit Cask Strength Peated

There is a whisky with an interesting name in Tomatin series, namely, Cù Bòcan – a dog from hell.

This Cù Bòcan was originated from a “village" tale. Once upon a time, there was a dog alike creature, or said a ghost, haunting at whereabouts the villages in which the present Tomatin distillery situated. It occasionally appeared to scare the villagers. Further, another tale, that a worker of a distillery encountered it. Meanwhile he was so frightening he somehow touched its fur. Oops! The Cù Bòcan was turning into a cloud of smoke and then vanishing.

The distillery catches the opportunity to offer a special bottling to tribute to such a “legendary" tale, that is, the whisky I now introduce, the Cù Bòcan。

The Cù Bòcan is a lightly peated single malt whisky. The phenol level is about 15 ppm. The present standard bottling is blended from the whiskies aged in virgin oak, Bourbon and Sherry casks respectively. It was firstly launched in October 2013 and the distillery only allocates a period of time every year to produce this Cù Bòcan.

In additions to the present standard Cù Bòcan, I have seen four special editions of Cù Bòcan, namely, Fino, Manzanilla, Oloroso and Pedro Ximenez cask finish. There is no longer any information about these four special editions available on the official website. However, the official website lists another three special bottlings of Cù Bòcan series. They are Virgin Oak Edition (6000 bottles released in February 2015), Sherry Edition(6000 bottles released in September 2014) and vintage 1989 Limited Edition (1080 bottles, bottled at ABV53.2%, blended from three Bourbon casks of number 37470, 37471 and 37472, all were distilled on 6/7/1989).

These special editions are just for information. I rather taste the one available and affordable.

Tomatin Cù Bòcan, 700 ml, 46%

Nose: BBQ honey, toast, condense milk, grass, slightly disinfectant
Palate: Charcoal, hot spices, coffee ground, salts, licorice gum
Aftertaste: Medium length, brunt wood, medicinal, salty, licorice alike herb
Comment: Interesting aroma, BBQ on the grass, toasting bread with spread of honey and condense milk, little bit disinfectant. Medium body, smoky and toasty, woody too, quite spices, slight salty. Medium length smoky wood aftertaste, with some herbs. Though it is bottled at ABV 46%, not too heavy as expected. Neither peaty did I expect, nor significant Island elements. However, the peat and smoke play a good role in seasoning this solid Tomatin. Don’t misunderstand it is an islander or a peat monster, just a lightly peat old favored whisky. A good whisky anyway, balance, adequate, rich, lovely.

Tomatin Cù Bòcan

Tomatin 有一款名字很有趣的酒，喚作地獄犬 Cù Bòcan。

這地獄犬 Cù Bòcan，其實是來自一則"鄉村"傳說。話說數百年來於 Tomatin 現址附近的村落，有一頭汪星人狀的生物，亦有說是鬼魂，久不久會出沒，嚇得村民們個心離一離。亦有附加傳說，有一天有一名酒廠工人碰倒這汪星鬼，被它嚇倒之餘不忘摸一摸它。哈! 一摸到它的毛皮後，汪星鬼便篷一聲化作輕煙消失了。

如此"鄉村"傳說，酒廠當然要開發一款酒來紀念，就是我現在要介紹的 Tomatin 地獄犬 Cù Bòcan。

這地獄犬 Cù Bòcan 是一款輕泥煤的單一麥芽威士忌，酚值約為 15 ppm，標準版本由陳年於 virgin oak, 波本 Bourbon 和 雪莉 Sherry 桶的原酒調合而成。這款酒於2013年十月首發，酒廠每年只會撥出一星期的時間生產這地獄犬。

除了現行的標準版本外，我在坊間見過四款雪莉特別版，分別是 Fino，Manzanilla，Oloroso 和 Pedro Ximenez finish。這四款 雪莉特別版在官網亦找不到資料了。官網上還有提供了另外三款特別版的資料，分別為 Virgin Oak Edition (2015年二月推出六千瓶), Sherry Edition(2014年九月推出六千瓶) 和 1989 Limited Edition ( 於6/7/1989 年蒸餾的波本單桶37470, 37471 and 37472 調合，ABV 53.2% 裝瓶，限量1080瓶)。

以上的特別版知道便算了，還是喝喝買得到和買得起的標準版吧。

Tomatin Cù Bòcan, 700 ml, 46%

氣味: 燒烤用蜜糖，多士，煉奶，青草，丁點消毒藥水
口味: 焦炭，帶辣香料，咖啡渣，微鹹，甘草糖
餘韻: 中等長度，烤木頭，西藥，帶鹹，甘草類藥草
評語: 有趣的氣味，草地上烘麵包塗蜜糖煉奶，輕輕一末的消毒藥水。中等酒體，煙燻和烘焙味道，亦有木質，頗有香料味道，帶點微鹹。中等長度，帶煙燻木材和香料的餘韻。這款酒雖則以 ABV 46% 較高酒精度裝瓶，但喝起來沒有預期中的重身，亦不是想像中的海島和泥煤風味。這高地地獄犬的輕泥煤，對增添風味豐富層次擔起重要角色，但可不要當作是海島泥煤威士忌來喝哦。豐富，平衡，適度，好酒。

Tomatin Cù Bòcan

I now introduce a Glenfiddich whisky which is a member of the Cask Collection series available at duty free retail shops.

There are three whiskies in this series. The official descriptions are as follows:
Select Cask: Sweetness, Spice and Citurs
Reserve Cask: Antique Leather, Spice and Oak
Vintage Cask: Smoky, Floral and Intense

My tasted sample was from Vintage Cask.

Glenfiddich Cask Collection Vintage Cask, 700 ml, 40%

Nose: Ashy, little bit salty grass, red apple, brown sugar, licorice
Palate: Rock salt, dark chocolate, toffee, clove
Aftertaste: Medium length, coffee grounds, burnt wood
Comment: Though it is said a lightly peated whisky, it is of island scent and slighty salty and smoky, hardly associated it to a classic Speyside whisky. Not a complex dram but the theme is of clear cut, soft and light with appropriate peat and smoke, an exotic Speysider.

Glenfiddich Vintage Cask (Photo sourced from Internet)

The Bowmore which I now introduce is rather uncommon in OB past series, namely, vintage, cask strength and wine wine cask aged. According to the information from Internet, this 1992 distilled whisky was firstly aged in Bourbon cask for six years and removed to limousin cask which previously held Bordeaux wine for further 10 years. Ten years’ secondary ageing cannot be said a “finish" and therefore it was termed “Wine Cask Matured".

Let’s tasting this wine cask matured vintage Bowmore.

Bowmore 16 year, 1992, Wine Cask Matured, 700 ml, 53.5%

Nose: Pepper, fortified wines, licorice gum, sea salt, caramel, toffee
Palate: Pepper, licorice, caramel, smoked fish, charcoal, dark chocolate
Aftertaste:Medium length, charcoal, roast fish, spices
Comment: Pepper alike spices in the first wave on nose, followed by sweet fortified wine and licorice gum, then island character sea salt appeared, salty favored caramel stuffed toffee bar followed. Full body, taste followed by aromas, medium length aftertaste, trended to toasty. Not very ocean at the beginning, wine favor as the name suggested. Aftertaste it is an islander, sea flavor cannot be concealed. Very good balancing, rich, layered, an excellent whisky.

Bowmore 1992, Wine Cask Matured

Just a simple tasting note about a young Bowmore bottled by The Whisky Agency (TWA)

Bowmore 11 years, 2001/2012, TWA, 700 ml, 53.6%

Nose: Sea breeze, ash, smoked fish, toffee, clove
Palate: Sea water, clove, toffee, barbecue fish, coffee grounds
Aftertaste: Medium length, char coal, tea waste
Comment: Very ocean note, somehow at BBQ stall by the coast. Firm body, oily, inhere elements from nose, not complex but clear and straight forward. Toasty taste also plays an important role, especially at later stage. A good whisky indeed.

Bowmore 11 years, 2001/2012, TWA

Before I introduce this Bowmore whisky, let’s talking about the “proof" at first.

Nowadays, Alcohol By Volume (ABV) is commonly using for indicating the strength of alcohol contents in alcoholic drinks. ABV is measured by the volume ratio of pure alcohol in a liquid at 20 degrees Celsius, e.g. ABV 40% that 40% of pure alcohol in a certain portion of liquid.

You may see some old bottle of whiskies with label showing proof for indicating the alcohol strength as the photo below.

Old label showing proof

In fact there are two proof systems, namely UK and US. The example shown above is a Scotland whisky which eventually applied UK proof. The conversion between ABV and UK proof is quite simple, UK proof/1.75 = ABV %. By using above example, 75 degree proof is equivalent to ABV 42.8%. However, UK has been using ABV to display alcohol strength since 1 January 1980.

US always uses ABV to determine and indicate alcohol strength on drinks but there is a proof system for US. The conversion with ABV is different from UK proof. It is simply divided the degree figures by two. Some whiskey producers show ABV on label in compliance with regulations as well as US proof at the same time. The photo below is an example of showing both ABV and US proof on label.

New label showing both ABV and US proof

Back to a foundation question – where was proof" from? It was rumored that in the 16 – 17 th century the seamen were allocated to rum while they were sailing on the sea. In such a dangerous yet boring journal, hard liquor became a necessity to seamen, especially in such an old days. Yes, we said hard liquor, that the liquor must be hard enough. Some ship owners might dilute the rum with water to save costs but the seamen obviously disagreed. Some people discover a simple method to determine the alcohol strength, that was pouring alcohol onto the subjected liquor and passed if it was able to ignite. The marginal point is so-called 100 proof. Oh! What a manhood story!

Yes, it was a manhood story, nothing more than a story. The truth of establishing proof system was to determine the tax level over the alcoholic drink, the higher the strength the higher the tax being imposed.

The bedtime story is over and now back to this Bowmore 100 Degree Proof which is available at duty free channels.

Bowmore 100 Degrees Proof, 700 ml, 57.1%

Nose: Honey, sea water, straw ash, hay, clove
Palate: Nectar, sea water, smoked fish, ash
Aftertaste: Medium length, smoked fish, ash, spices
Comment: Light honey at front, then weaves rolled, accompanying with ash and hay, scent like wildfire aftermath, touch of clove adding layer. Though high alcohol strength, not overwhelming alcohol on palate, still honeyed smoked seafood. Medium length aftertaste, smoky and spices. Rather flat on nose while rich and solid in mouth, so as to aftertaste. A clear peaty and maritime dram, heavy but easy to drink, a good whisky.

Bowmore 100 Degree Proof

Bowmore 100 Degree Proof

我現在要介紹的這款 Glenfiddich，是見於免稅店的 Cask Collection 系列酒款。

這系列是一套三款，以下是官方介紹的定位:
Select Cask: Sweetness, Spice and Citurs
Reserve Cask: Antique Leather, Spice and Oak
Vintage Cask: Smoky, Floral and Intense

我喝的樣本是 Vintage Cask

Glenfiddich Cask Collection Vintage Cask, 700 ml, 40%

“為甚麼不全喝三款才作全面介紹?"

哦~ 作為窮酒 L，有甚麼便喝甚麼的了，那有得揀擇。我不擅於埋堆拍馬屁，騙不到甚麼名酒老酒。有這些真心朋友送贈交換回來的樣本喝，已經很滿足的了，起碼是挺直腰骨地喝，喝得很暢快哦!

還是不要葡萄人家了，說回這 Vintage Cask 。根據官方介紹，這款酒是有淡泥煤的風味，分別由歐洲和美洲橡木桶陳的原酒調配，但沒有說明是雪莉還有波本。正路歐洲橡木桶陳的會是雪莉，美洲橡木桶陳的可以是雪莉或波本。

喝喝看怎麼樣的吧。

氣味: 炭灰，微鹹， 青草，紅蘋果，紅糖，甘草
口味: 岩鹽，草灰，黑朱古力，拖肥，丁香
餘蘊: 中等長度，咖啡渣，焦木
結論: 雖則是輕泥煤，但氣味上有些海島氣息，入口亦是鹹鹹煙燻，很難聯想到是 Speyside 的 Glenfiddich。整體不複雜，主題明確，輕淡但適度的泥煤煙燻，不濃重，算是 Speyside  中的異教徒，但又不是邪教，飲得過。

Glenfiddich Vintage Cask (Photo sourced from Internet)

客席酒評人 – 奧當

啱啱榮升人父~~ 係時候嗒返杯秩父, 感受人生既高低起跌。

秩父(Chichibu)是2008年由伊知郎（Ichiro Akuto）創立的年輕蒸餾所。Ichiro是關門大吉的羽生蒸餾所創辦人Isouji Akuto的長孫，在大學修學釀造科，曾於日本威士忌巨頭三得利打工。2000年羽生遭逢滅廠卮運，新買家將蒸餾所拆骨出售，Ichiro籌期買回伯爺心血，約400桶的存酒。

成功需父幹，伯爺＂留＂落黎既羽生，令全球威士忌飲家趨之若鶩，亦為Ichiro賺到第一桶金。曾經滄海難為水，除卻巫山不是雲。Ichiro不甘心只做一間裝瓶廠，不甘心背負家傳祖業敗在自己手上，決心重振蒸餾所。
秩父蒸餾所位於埼玉県秩父市郊區，冬夏溫差非常大。就如我們港燦熟悉的台灣宜蘭Kavalan，強烈的溫度變化加快酒液熟成速度。Ichiro靠裝瓶羽生名振全球，所以大家都對秩父寄與厚望，再加上年產量只有9萬公升，索價自然不菲。
今次有機會下試呢支非常年青既重泥煤威威，一探呢間日本威壇新貴既風格～～～

秩父 THE PEATED 2010-2013, 3yr, 53.5% Bottle # 3444 / 6700

香味: 煙燻, 橙皮, 檸檬夾心餅, 麵豉
口味: 煙燻, 香茅, 檸檬皮, 蜜糖, 香草,
餘韻: 悠長, 檸檬夾心餅, 青蘋果, 麥茶

高苯酚3年酒, 泥煤味沒有預期中橫練。清新芸香科果香, 與煙燻平衡細緻。口感香甜油潤, 酒體中強。加幾滴水後，檸檬皮感覺比較明顯。3年陳釀難得一見的討好平衡。
悠長餘韻, 煙燻過後, 就好似食完檸檬夾心餅, 檸檬皮香精成為主軸, 青蘋果味若隱若現。飲完好想落士多買包old school檸檬夾心餅o趙下~~

總結黎講，計埋價錢，呢支THE PEATED算是中庭之作。味道平衡細緻，但略欠層次。但在短短３年，可以把波本桶的優點灌注，大膽地製作重泥煤酒體。可見技術絕非等閒，期待未來有機品嚐秩父更高年份既陳釀。