Chinese edition is here.

Recently, the Taiwan exclusive whisky bottlings are getting popular amongst whisky connoisseurs. The rich favors and package design with Chinese elements attract not only the local Taiwan customers, but also win the appreciation of other Asian and even the western markets.

The Taiwanese market is mature and big enough to sustain a stable still growing status quo that allows the presence of many of these exclusive bottlings. Many people see Taiwan as a whisky paradise in Asia.

Whisky is becoming a trend in Hong Kong in recent years. The growth of “true" connoisseurs and collectors is very significant by which can be peeked from some activities, such as the lively whisky auctions and keeping on new opening of whisky specialist shops and bars, for examples.

Though the market size of Hong Kong cannot compete to Taiwan and Japan by now, she has good potential. Some Hong Kong whisky connoisseurs have already owned their exclusive casks, for purposes of personal interest, collections, group members & etc. Here is one of the examples, an exclusive cask for a Hong Kong newly established whisky specialist shop, The Rare Malt.

The Rare Malt

Amazingly this new whisky shop can partner with Mr. Tiger Huang who is a famous whisky industry practitioner in Taiwan. This exclusive cask bottling is allowed to bear the brand “Tiger Selection" which represents the reputation of Mr. Tiger Huang. The whisky itself is a well aged 24 years old single malt from GlenDronach. It is not easy to acquire such an old cask at present as in the fact that the insufficient supplies of mature stocks that the most distilleries prefer to retain the old casks for their own use.

Mr. Tiger Huang

Just curious about the outcome of the reaction by a new player The Rare Malt x famous Tiger Selection x well aged cask from GlenDronach. Let’s take some drams right now!

GlenDronach 24 years, 1992/2016, C# 95, 700 ml, 57.6%
Bottling: The Rare Malt and Tiger Selection
Cask type: Oloroso Sherry Butt
Distilled: 15 May 1992
Bottled: November 2016
No. of bottle: 34/589

Sample from a friend of mine and I further tasted it again at the shop direct from original bottle.

Nose: Dried ginger, condensed milk, toffee, cinnamon, clove, sandalwood
Palate: Dried ginger, dark coffee, toasted wood, cinnamon, clove, herb, brown sugar
Aftertaste: Long aftertaste, coffee ground, toasted wood, compound spices
Comments: Quite spices, sweetie condense milk and toffee held, hints of sandalwood appeared overtimes. Solid body, not oily as expected but crispy instead, still dried ginger and spices, much toasty. Long toasty and woody aftertaste, chewing bitterness. This bottling is quite crispy and refreshing rather than those greasy and sweetie Taiwanese counterparts, and hence, details of tastes can be well identified, plus seasoning by species, making you glass after glass. Not a big dram, but instead it is balancing and layering, rich and detailing, love it.

Look forward to see more Hong Kong exclusive casks in future.

The first lot of this cask 95 will be available at The Rare Malt soon. You may contact them for details.

GlenDronach 1992 C# 95

English edition is here.

台灣包桶的威士忌近年在香港賣得成行成市，口味方面很個人那就不說，包裝上則充滿中國元素，如三國呀戲劇呀等。正所謂藝術既嘢我識條鐵，默默的看過便好。

那有沒有想過，會有香港的選桶包桶呢？

近日有老友堅持要我去一間開業於觀塘的酒行(酒專)看看，基本上我已很厭倦公關式的吃喝活動及坊間的買賣，但老友堅持，那順意去看看吧，那便是標題的 The Rare Malt ，一間新開業的香港酒行(酒專)。這店的店長我應該認識亦可能之前有見過面，說實在的香港所謂的"酒界"活躍的來來去去總是那幾批人，就算我多宅也好，總也會識到些人的。年青的店長說有參加過我的講座和"自細"便有看 Sipping Malt 的文章 (自細? ^%$&xo&^;^%^%(^*&….)。店面裝潢平實中見心思，尤其喜歡那酒架設計，酒款由數百元的多納十五年到珍藏級的輕井澤和古董酒也有，正是豐儉由人，店長年青亦青靚白凈….(哦~~~~ 你賣廣告!) OKOK，入正題。

The Rare Malt

這新開業的酒行竟然和台灣酒業名人黃敏恭先生合作推出香港限定的 The Rare Malt x 虎之選 x GlenDronach，還要是近年難求的二十四年老酒，真的意想不到! 雖然有不少香港人時興說甚麼"識人好過識字"，但以一間新開業的酒行，能否單憑人際關係就能打動虎哥黃敏恭先生出動"虎之選"的金漆招牌呢? 市道上很多人呢說則天下無敵，其實一出手便知有沒有! 喝喝看會一會吧！

虎哥黃敏恭先生

GlenDronach 24 years, 1992/2016, C# 95, 700 ml, 57.6%
Bottling: The Rare Malt and 虎之選
Cask type: Oloroso Sherry Butt
Distilled: 15 May 1992
Bottled: November 2016
No. of bottle: 34/589

樣本由老友提供，他從 The Rare Malt處取得。其後到訪該店時，有從原瓶倒了一杯再喝確認。一如以往，你敢提供樣本給我，我便敢照直寫。得罪你以後再無"樣本"送上? 那請便吧，反正市面上有大堆專家達人，不愁招不到人寫時興的"抄考"文章歌功頌德哦!

又是廢話，真正再入正題了，喝吧!

氣味: 乾薑，煉奶，拖肥，肉桂，丁香，檀木
口味: 乾薑，黑咖啡，烤木頭，肉桂，丁香，藥草，啡糖
餘醞: 悠長，咖啡渣，烤木頭，複合香料
結論: 香料氣味明顯，煉奶和拖肥香甜的氣息持續，檀木的幽香慢慢沁出。酒體結實，沒有預想中的油感，但清脆，還是乾薑和香料的延續，更多烤炙和草本的味道。悠長的餘蕰，柔和的烤炙和木質苦味，好些香料作調味。對比起以往喝開的部份台灣多納包桶的濃厚甜美，這款兩地合作之選喝起來較清脆和明淨，內涵可細緻地表現出來，加上香辛料的調劑，喝起來不膩。這不是一款大嗚大放的酒，需要慢飲細嚼，才能欣賞到她的細緻，平衡和層次上的優良表現。不腻，耐喝，令人想再添杯，好酒。

“虎之選"招牌還真是靠得住。期待未來還會有更多優秀的香港或兩地合作選桶，讓我們享享酒福。

聽聞這款酒的首批瓶裝將於 The Rare Malt 限定發售，有興趣的朋友請自行向店家查詢。

(文未還有些"彩蛋"，但玻璃心的人可不要看啊！)

GlenDronach 1992 C# 95

後記: 只有無料扮四條無自信的人才會將"識人好過識字"這句說話經常掛在咀邊，還要邊說邊表現出洋洋得意的樣子。我還是堅信"識字"最重要，做好自己本份，專注學習鑽研，造出成就，待那些依賴"識人好過識字"的閒人來巴結吧。做被人"識"的那主角，一定好過要死命去"識"人的那些茄呢啡。

後後記: (你又得罪人了，你無得免費吃喝是自招的)

後後後記: 我不仰人鼻息不求人自然串得起，你去識人吧! 我要專心的去"識"字呢!

環球美酒盡在 Sipping Malt 微醺之醉 www.sippingmalt.com

English Version please click here

繼續分享格蘭多納 GlenDronach 的酒評。這次介紹的，是一款來自台北美麗信花園酒店的選桶。

GlenDronach 20 years, 1993/2013, C# 36, 700 ml, 59.3%
OB for Miramar Garden Taipei 台北美麗信花園酒店

我不是旅遊達人，甚至乎出國外遊的機會也甚少，當然對這家酒店是一無所知，在網路上看了看，據聞是一間頗受日本遊客青睞的酒店。同系還有一家新竹美麗信花園酒店。

這台北美麗信花園酒店包桶的 36 號桶多納聽聞市面能見度不高，價格亦較高，這也難怪的，這是人家酒店包桶的耶。我喝的很名顯是樣本，是我單方面認作的老友送的，多謝。

氣味: 舊冬蜜，麥炙中藥，黑棗，拖肥，黑朱古力，粗鹽
口味: 舊冬蜜，蜜餞梅子，黑茶，柑橘皮，黑咖啡，藥草
餘蘊: 悠長，烤木，炭燒咖啡，藥草
結論: 起首有點酒精感，有點老舊氣息，甜中帶甘醇，未後有一點鹹味。酒體厚實溫潤，醇和雋永，偏向甘苦，餘蘊悠長，更為甘苦，但不刺喉。整體甚佳，複雜具層次，氣味濃香甜美不過膩，有草本及甘苦作平衡，尤愛溫潤的酒體，口味和餘蘊稍甘香焦苦，耐嚼。要挑剔的是藥草的苦味稍過了少許，但不過份，整體評價是正斗之作。

有病呻吟: 很多時人是很現實的，你對人家有利用價值的話，當然會稱兄道弟，面書見 post 速回見字即 like，不時要約聚會享樂，但你變得無大價值的時候，不要說人家還會視你為老友，連一聲招呼也沒有。會有真心無利益關係的朋有嗎?會有的，但絕少，遇上了，要珍惜。不過可惜的是，人總是不懂得珍惜，只知予取予攜，沒有感恩之心。人皆如是，我亦如是，唯常自省，冀免沉淪。

GlenDronach 1993 C# 36

GlenDronach 1993 C# 36

Worldwide spirits and wines at Sipping Malt www.sippingmalt.com

This tasting note is about GlenDronach again. This GlenDronach is rather special which is a selected cask by Miramar Garden Taipei.

GlenDronach 20 years, 1993/2013, C# 36, 700 ml, 59.3%
Bottling: Miramar Garden Taipei
Cask: Oloroso Sherry Butt
Distilled: 15 January 1993
Bottled: December 2013

I am not a “professional traveler" and in fact I seldom go traveling. I have no idea about this hotel but got some information from the Internet that this Taipei hotel is welcomed by Japanese tourists. There is a Miramar Garden Hsinchu in the same league.

This Glendronach cask 36 is exclusively bottled for Miramar Garden Taipei that eventually this whisky is rarely seen in the market and price is fairly high. Needless to say what I tasted was a sample bottle from a friend of mine.

Nose: aged honey, honey baked Chinese herb, black date, toffee, dark chocolate, raw salt
Palate: aged honey, preserved plum, black tea, citrus peel, black coffee, herb
Aftertaste: Long, charred wood, toasted coffee, herb
Comments: On nose a bit alcohol attack in the beginning, scent of aging, sweet yet bitterness, little salty at end. Solid and warm at palate, rich, trend to toasty, even toasty in long aftertaste but not irritated. Overall performance very good, complex and layered, rich and adequate sweetness, balanced by herbal and soft bitterness, lovely smooth and solid body, much more toasty and lingeringly. Just a bit overly bitterness of herb if picky to say. It is indeed a very good whisky.

GlenDronach 1993 C# 36

GlenDronach 1993 C# 36

環球美酒盡在 Sipping Malt 微醺之醉 www.sippingmalt.com

English Version please click here

這篇簡單酒評要介紹的，是一瓶徐代書先生選桶的格蘭多納 GlenDronach。Keeper of the Quaich 徐代書先生 不用再多介紹了吧，他多年前送了一瓶標緻的樣本給我，我一直留著未有開來喝。這與酒的價錢無關，只是對友情的價值看法。幸運地早前有朋友送了同一款酒的樣本給我，這樣本是來自他們主辦的"兩地威士忌品飲交流會“，當晚作導賞主講的，正正就是代書兄，真巧哦!我 終於可以喝到這款酒之餘，亦能繼續保留這份記念品，多謝各位。

Glendronach 18 years, 1994, C# 68 (徐代書小樣)

GlenDronach 18 years, 1994/2012, C# 68, 700 ml. 56.6%
Description: 徐代書選桶 Kenny Hus’ Selection, Taiwan
Distilled: 28 January 1994
Bottled: December 2012
Bottle no.: 393/621

氣味: 乾薑, 蜜餞梅子, 葡萄乾, 柑橘, 朱古力, 菸草, 肉桂
口味: 舊蜜糖, 蜜餞梅子, 拖肥, 咖啡, 糖薑, 煙燻箱, 香料
餘韻: 中等長度, 烤木材, 咖啡渣, 香料
結論: 微酸的柑橘和梅子氣味於前，繼而是優質的朱古力，乾薑添加些香辣氣息，點點的菸草，肉桂類香料結尾。酒液入口令人聯想起黏結的舊蜜糖和拖肥, 微辣帶甜的糖薑與複合香料添加韻味, 還有煙燻木盒的味道。中等長度, 稍苦和焦香的餘韻。氣味上有明顯帶酸的新鮮和蜜餞水果，酒液入口則導入蜜糖和糖果的香甜, 香料和木質平衡酸甜, 尾段梢焦苦但不算過份。整體豐富及複雜, 表現具層次, 甚佳的威士忌。

Glendronach 18 years, 1994, C# 68

Worldwide spirits and wines at Sipping Malt www.sippingmalt.com

A simple tasting note about a GlenDronach. This GlenDronach is bottled for Mr. Kenny Hsu who is a Keeper of the Quaich. He is a friend of mine. He gave me a sample in a nice bottle in few years ago. I keep it as my treasure and therefore never open it. It has nothing to do with the value of this whisky but to the matter about how you value the friendship. Luckily my friends recently gave me another sample of this bottling. This sample is obtained from a Kenny guided tasting event organized by them. Thank you. Finally I could have opportunity to taste it while I can still keep Kenny’s bottle as my collection.

Glendronach 18 years, 1994, C# 68 (Sample from Kenny Hsu)

GlenDronach 18 years, 1994/2012, C# 68, 700 ml. 56.6%
Description: Kenny Hus’ Selection, Taiwan
Distilled: 28 January 1994
Bottled: December 2012
Bottle no.: 393/621

Nose: Dry ginger, preserved plum, raisin, citrus, chocolate, tobacco, cinnamon
Palate: Old honey, preserved plum, toffee, coffee, preserved ginger, smoking box, spicy
Aftertaste: Medium, burnt wood, coffee grounds, spicy
Comment: Lightly sour citrus and preserved plum at front, fine chocolate followed, dried ginger added little bit spicy, hints of tobacco, ended with cinnamon. Sticky old honey and sweet toffee, mildly hot preserved ginger and mixed spices, touch of smoke and oak. Medium length bitter and toasted aftertaste. Rather sour fresh stone fruit and preserved berries notes but sweet honey and sweeties at palate, balance by spices and wood avoiding overwhelming, a bit harsh bitterness in aftertaste but still acceptable. Full and rich, complex and layered, a good big whisky.

Glendronach 18 years, 1994, C# 68

longmorn with glass

bottle with box

環球美酒, 盡在 Sipping Malt 微醺之醉 www.sippingmalt.com

Longmorn蒸餾廠由John Duff於1895年成立, John Duff 曾於Glendronach做經理, 更是Glenlossie的創辦人。 3年後1898年John再係隔離開設Longmorn的姊妹廠BenRiach。

可惜好景不常, 1899年調合威士忌公司Pattison’s whisky倒閉, 蒸餾廠生意大受打擊, John Duff將Longmorn及BenRiach賣掉。Longmorn 多年輾轉易手, 1978被Chivas購入, 再一并在2001被Pernod Ricard Group收歸其下。

而BenRiach輾轉易手至Pernod Ricard Group, 2004由南非和蘇格蘭組成的獨立財團購入, 成立BenRiach Distillery Company Limited。再於2008年買入Glendronach。不知當年BenRiach的姐妹廠Longmorn當年的風格是否類同, 今天的BenRiach是相一家非常勇於實驗和創新嘗試不同過桶的酒廠; Glendronach則成了Speyside獨當一面的雪利怪獸!! 至於Longmorn現今的表現如何, 正是文章的主題所在了。

Longmorn位於Speyside, 在Elgin鎮和Rothers鎮之間, 擁有4 座wash stills和 4座 spirit stills, 年產3,500,000公升非常有規模的蒸餾廠。其產品大多用仍調合同門兄弟Chivas及Royal Salute, 坊間鮮見Longmorn 的原廠入樽Official Bottling標準酒。小兄曾經試了5款以上獨立裝瓶廠(Independent bottler)的Longmorn, 喜歡其香味複雜層次平衡, 能發揮出波本桶的木質羶香特質, 口感厚實, 油感豐富。但要好好了解該酒廠的本色, Official Bottling入門標準版才是不二之選。

Front label

bottle back

box back

Longmorn 16yr OB ABV 48%

N: 輕煙熏, 煙草, 焦糖, 橙皮, 忌廉, 青蘋果
P: 口感厚如糖漿, 油感豐富, 香草, 焦糖咖啡
F: 餘韻中長, 乾椰絲, 杏仁, 薄荷, 罐頭車厘子

厚實有力的酒體, 飽滿油潤的口感, 甜美精緻的香味~~橙皮, 水蜜桃等果香味較為內儉; 忌廉, 香草等木質羶香卻非常突出。 波本桶甜潤及木本特質, 表現得淋漓盡致, 什有香醇濃郁的老酒風味。
如果將一般年青波本桶單一麥芽威士忌比喻為Chadonnay白酒, Longmorn就是經木桶陳年的Chadonnay, 多一份油潤口感和香草甜香。如果說Glendronach原酒風格是重口味雪桶, Longmorn就是重口味的波本風格。
總結而言, Longmorn 無論OB及IB都表現出平順和飽滿厚實口感,香味濃郁層次豐富, 尾韻悠長。這支16年標準酒其48%高酒精度, 非冷凝過濾實在是非常吸引的配置。其表現出的老酒風格, 實在非常可貴。無論是OB及IB都是非常值得一試再試的好酒。

Glass

Bottle front