環球美酒盡在 Sipping Malt 微醺之醉 www.sippingmalt.com

宮城峽 Miyagikyou

仙台位於日本宮城県，為東北第一大城市，有出產威士忌，本名仙台威士忌，廠址實為仙台外圍之郊區，後正名為宮城峽。宮城峽之峽意，為兩山之中，幽谷長年皆有水氣。水源靠東北山脈流下之河川，此地與山崎極為相似，同為三川合流，最後聚於広瀨川，合流之地常散出霧露 (負離子特別多)，適合長期儲存熟成 maturation。故宮城峽雖近似低地 Lowland 風格，但熟成後酒體常有厚重之感，想必與水源及地理位置有關。

宮城峽 Miyagikyou

首次到訪仙台已為311地震後翌年，幸宮城峽處仙市以西，遠離海岸及震央，酒廠幾近無損。若說有受地震海潚影響，實乃外人無知。若說有幅射，則不知與家中微波爐何者為高。

宮城峽有4對極大的蒸溜器 pot still，連兩隻穀物連續蒸溜器 continuous still and coffey still，産量為當時日本之冠。2012年尚未出現日威熱潮，往宮城峽之參觀者少之又少，我初訪時遊人不多，付費品飲室更無人問津，可讓我於清晨暢飲13杯，醉倒於「仙台」之上 (品飲室外長欄)。

東北空氣清雅，盛夏卻無悶熱，涼風徐徐，一睡便到晏晝。偶爾睜開眼，見太太正細讀周樟壽之雜文，倚著她便再往去睡，依偎之間，涼風又至，已分不出何者輕撫我。再睡時張手及風，也讓風滲進內心，半醉半醒，一時物我無分，已超莊周夢蝶之境。莫說良晨美景帶不走，經此一覺，宮城峽便終身我與。

東北城市，宜不同季節到訪。以仙台為例，其夏季以七夕祭聞名。暑假遊覽宮城峽，可盡量配合農曆七月初七到訪，便能同時欣賞大街為節慶佈置的裝飾，三步一式，五步一變，不及細賞當前彩絹花巧，撲面又來另一排美豔嬌繡，一時不知美為何物；其寒天則芳霜飄至，溫泉雪景非関東所及。且夏可往三景松島，冬可接藏王樹冰，訪宮城峽必不悶也。

到訪仙台，還有一期待，就是找尋魯迅之足跡。魯迅先於東京留學，再往東北最高學府習醫，後棄醫從文的歷史不贅。青葉城有一魯迅銅像作紀念，沒有仙台，便沒有魯迅，近代亞洲文學史將改寫。

魯迅銅像

另一行程，當為認識獨眼龍伊達政宗 Date，政宗昔日雄踞仙台藩，宮城峽便有出品一名為「伊達」的威士忌，起初為宮城県限定，酒體平凡但酒標别緻。

日人早於唐朝起盛習中國文化，文書皆以漢字為模，並以此行文賦詩為傲，政宗文化涵養見於青葉城博物館內展示之書，有一詩便全以漢字為本，曰：

馬上少年過 世平白髪多
殘軀天所赦 不樂是如何

論辭論韻論意，根本是唐人之作。就憑此作，可側見政宗之時盛擁漢文化，與同期清代康雍乾盛世相同。至今日人無法讀懂全漢字文本，乃中央集權統一文化及鎖國政策之後話。

不才兩訪宮城峽，若論周邊之境，莫可不提作並溫泉。溫泉雖未聞名於國，但作為地區溫泉之鄉，且乘宮城峽遊覽之便，當可一訪。其中岩松溫泉乃広瀨川旁之天然露天混浴溫泉，國外遊客幾近絕跡，集此等條件者連群馬県草津以至新潟県越後湯沢亦未復見。且溫泉置於広瀨之上游，正可觀賞河川流向宮城峽作蒸溜之用，From Water to Whisky。晚上尤其淙淙，若有一佳人作伴，其意境無以上之。大部份溫泉旅館均於JR 作並站有專車接送，最佳玩法莫過於早上參觀酒廠，午後便可下榻旅館休息，至翌日返回市內，或再往山形県郊遊。故往宮城峽及仙台，不待三幾天似有不足；若再論及宮城県內之日本三景 – 松島及周邊，不待上一週焉能安然。

說得遠了，分享些實際資訊，假期及預算不多者，由東京往返宮城峽，實可一天來回，駕車未免太累，但於東京站、上野站 Ueno及大宮站 Omiya 皆可乘東北新幹線 Tohoko Shinkansen 前往，快車只須兩站便達仙台。仙台有電車 JR 前往宮城峽附近的作並站，班次不多 (可查google map 或JR 網頁)。作並站於週末有免費巴士 shuttle bus往返宮城峽 (同樣要上網查班次)，不乘車而漫步則要30分鐘，有行李者不輕鬆。若少往東京以外地區，乘此JR 可一試這通常只得兩卡的電車，至郊區時單軌雙程行駛，車門也要按鈕啟動，頗有玩味。但若非週末或有情意，選乘 JR 戇居矣。

車站

仙台站有巴士前往山形県，中途下車於宮城峽門前，不但少走20分鐘路，沿路與庶民同坐，欣賞兩旁春花秋葉夏水冬雪，或半睡半醒不覺時光驟過，皆比只往酒廠掃貨富足。不明何以逢雜誌日誌皆只道遊宮城峽乘 JR，愚以此為下下之選。

回程同坐此車於青葉大街 Aoba dori 下車，運氣好的話還可以見到路旁食檔 – 居酒屋世界遺產大分軒，朝行晚拆，滿有江戶前之風。味道雖未必佳，但價錢必定相宜，此等風貌於大城市已不多見。寒冬進帳，拿出酒廠買的限定酒 (仍有的話)，與老闆呷一杯再閒話家常 (不諳日語者指手劃腳)，不正如魯迅當年留學境況乎？

路旁食檔

今論 Nikka 威士忌，常推余市為首，但若論酒廠規模及運作，則宮城峽與余市實為相輔相成，缺一不可：前者蒸溜器幾乎長年運作，補後者暑假停工之不足；另宮城峽以蒸氣發熱蒸溜，蒸溜溫度稍低，酒體輕柔淡雅，余市則為直火加熱，雖不易控制，但酒體厚重，互補不足；兩間酒廠的蒸溜器頸部末端一上一下，也取其豐醇與順滑，生產出近似 Highland 及 Lowland 的不同風格；宮城峽更有余市所沒有的 continuous still (及之後的 coffey still)，補上穀物原酒的大系；而宮城峽的酒庫於建廠時已數倍於余市，彷彿預見日本威士忌將供不應求，可見竹鶴政孝為宮城峽之建造費煞苦心。為紀念竹鶴政孝，才有之後以他命名的「竹鶴」調和威士忌。

故若說山崎為政孝的而立之作 (1923年完工，政孝剛30歲)，酒廠為實驗性質，剛為日本生產優質威士忌起步；余市則是政孝的不惑之作 (1934年始建，政孝40歲)，此時他已全有自己的理念，以蘇格蘭生產方式為王道，惜余市規模也僅止於此；宮城峽則為他隨心所欲不越矩之大成 (1969年建成，政孝已屆70)，收放自如，一生無憾於貢獻日本威士忌發展。竊以為當時宮城峽乃圓補日本威士忌之全面 (富士御殿場建於1972年，白州則建於1973年)，政孝居功至偉。沒有政孝，既沒有山崎、余市、宮城峽及信州 (依據竹鶴筆記規劃)，也沒有「山崎」、「余市」、「宮城峽」、「響」、「竹鶴」及「駒ヶ岳」，世界威士忌的歷史也將改寫。

觀乎竹鶴政孝幾近以一人之力，譜出日本威士忌版圖，繼而獨步全球，放緒四海，前不見古人，後不見來者。每想及此，即愧嚐余市宮市之酒，歎今飲者自以為是，逢酒只論價道稀，而不知站在巨人之肩，卻永不能望其項背。

千古風流，灰飛煙滅，人生如夢，一尊還酹江月。

宮城峽 Miyagikyou

宮城峽 Miyagikyou

宮城峽 Miyagikyou

環球美酒盡在 Sipping Malt 微醺之醉 www.sippingmalt.com

English Version at page bottom

前文介紹過水楢桶陳的威士忌，同時分享了山崎水楢 2012 的品飲報告，那現在喝喝其前一版的山崎水楢，看看其分別有多大。

Yamazaki 山崎 Mizunara 2011, 700 ml, 48%

氣味: 檀香，黑茶，椰子，香草，忌廉，微鹹，牛油(黃油)
口味: 忌廉，牛油糖，堅果，香草，鹹牛油，肉豆蔻，乾果皮
餘蘊: 稍短，堅果，新鮮木材，辛香料
結論: 氣味濃郁，滿滿的椰子和忌廉，不少得那"東方禪味"的檀香。豐厚，油潤，充滿牛油乳製品元素，配合些堅果和香料，溫潤豐富。餘蘊很不錯，有乾果和新鮮木材的森林氣息，有香料點綴，香軟舒適，但退卻得稍快。氣味香濃，口味豐富，結實而圓渾，平衡好層次佳，餘蘊雖略短但回味，正斗之好酒。

這 2011 年版和 2012 年版，在看酒評的比對上有分別，當然時間上差距和裝瓶樣本加上個人能力經驗的不足會有影響，但我仍然記得喝這兩款酒時的印象，2011 年版盲飲是覺得清新中見木材香料，2012 年版則圓渾中明顯有檀木元素，喝單一麥芽威士忌就是這麼有趣，永遠有驚喜。

English Version of Tasting Note

I have briefly introduced about the Mizunara Japanese oakd whisky and share a tasting note of Yamazaki Mizunara Cask 2012 Edition in my previous article and now taste its previous release.

Yamazaki Mizunara cask 2011, 700 ml, 48%

Nose: Sandalwood, black tea, coconut, vanilla, cream, little bit salty, butter
Palate: Cream, butterscotch, nutty, vanilla, salty butter, nutmeg, dried mandarin peel
Aftertaste: A bit short, nutty, flesh wood, nutmeg
Overall: Condense, full of coconut, salty butter and vanilla cream  black tea and sandalwood deepen the layer。Thick, coated with butter, seasoned by nuts and spices, rounded and smooth. Rich but  a bit short aftertaste, still chewing. Rich nose, solid, smooth and creamy, very balancing and layered, thought a bit short aftertaste, still good. An very good Japanese whisky, really good.

The tastes between this 2011 release and 2012 are quite different. It may be resulted from the time difference, samples condition and personal subjective influence but notwithstanding, I still remember the first impression on tasting these two drams, refreshing fruit and  spicy wood in 2012 release while creamy sandalwood in 2011 release. It is the fun for tasting single malt whiskies. You never know what surprise they bring to you.

Yamazaki Mizunara cask 2011

環球美酒盡在 Sipping Malt 微醺之醉 www.sippingmalt.com

English version at page bottom

洋人口中說的"東方禪味"日本水楢桶威士忌，三得利應該是先行者，其原委可不是為了創造"東方禪味"。有說在二戰期間，日本當時無法從"米國"等的"敵國"進口橡木桶，只好在北部找到水楢木製作酒桶作為代替，但卻因此加入了所謂的"日本風味"。有關鄙人對"東方禪味"的見解，請興趣的可參看四年多前的舊文"東方禪味“。

日本水楢陳桶威士忌可是很珍貴的，很多時的水楢桶威士忌，都是調合部份水楢桶原酒，又或是用水楢桶作過桶。原因方面，有說是水楢木風味較強烈，用來調配或過桶會易控制，另一原因，就是成本高。雖則水楢未算是罕有樹木，但和歐美的紅白橡木數量相比，當然是比較矜貴。

所謂的水楢，其實亦是橡樹的一類。日本橡樹有兩個種類，分別是 Mizunara oak 和 Konara oak。由於前者較常見樹身亦較粗大，所以多用作木材原料之用。聽聞水楢木很重很結實，亦不易爆裂，是作為木製傢俱，地板和木門等的上等材料。水楢 Mizunara 名字中的 Mizu，意思是水，天然水楢木中含有較多的水份，毛細孔比較開放，用於做酒桶存酒的話，會較易漏酒。原木產量較少，製桶工藝難，容易漏酒，是成本高的原因。

原酒風味難控制，陳酒成本高，完全水楢桶陳的威士忌在市場上少見是有原因的。(註: 以上的個人觀點是來自四方八面的資料併湊而成，不要太學術認真對待)

說了一大堆真假難分的水楢論，還是說說實在的水楢桶陳威士忌吧。

Yamazaki 山崎 Mizunara Japanese Oak Cask 日本水楢桶 2012 Edition, 700 ml, 48%

這是市場上少有會恆常推出的水楢陳桶威士忌，所謂的恆常推出，亦只是每年一造，原價新貨上架不足一分鐘沽清。我喝的樣本是 2012 年版，價錢不要問我，我是喝酒不是喝價錢的。還有，我是 blind tasting 喝這款酒的。

氣味: 椰子，芒果，百香果，冰糖，新折樹枝，香薰，忌廉，香草
口味: 花蜜，椰子，柑皮，新鮮木材，多士，八角，丁香
餘蘊: 悠長，柑皮，黑咖啡，多士
結論: 這款酒我是盲飲的，喝的時候不知道這就是傳奇的水猶桶陳威士忌，只是覺得既不是雪莉但又不全像波本，很有新桶的風味，還有些檀香也似的香薰，開估後才知喝的就是頂頂大名難得一見的山崎水猶，真的要感謝老友。撇開那甚麼東方味的水楢特色，這款酒那熱帶水果加上新折樹枝的香氣，真的是清新無比，令人精神一振。酒體豐厚，油感，沒有氣味上那麼清爽，但也清潤，未段的辛香料加入深度，加強平衡。餘蘊頗長，甘苦適度，也是一貫的清新感。這是一款果香撲鼻，清新柔滑，平衡有致的威士忌，和其他的桶型風格有明顯分別，但也是正面的，以酒論酒，正斗之選。

English Version of Tasting Note

Suntory might be the pioneer of making the Mizunara Japanese Oaked whisky and brought the so-called “Eastern Zen" whisky favour impressing the western connoisseurs though it was not the initiative cause in doing so. There is a saying that Japan was unable to import oak barrels from those “enemy" western countries during the World War II time. The whisky makers found an alternative in northern Japan, which is the Mizunara Japanese Oak, and unintentionally created the “Eastern Zen" favor to Japanese whisky.

Japanese Mizunara oaked whisky is very expensive. In most cases those so-called Mizunara oaked whiskies are either blended of some or a finishing. The reason behind that the extract from Mizunara oak is too strong and may overwhelm  other favors of a whisky and therefore blending or finishing will be much easier to handle. The another reason is the high cost. Though Mizunara oak is not really a rare tree species, it is relatively precious in comparing to its Europium and North American cousins in terms of numbers and price.

Mizunara is a species of oaks. There are two species of Japanese oak, namely Mizunara and Konara。The former is more common and the size is bigger than the latter, it is commonly used as timbers. Since Mizunara wood is heavy and hard that resistance to crack, it is ideal for using as premium materials for making furniture, floor timbers and doors. The phase “Mizu" means water in Japanese. The Mizunara wood structure is rather porous that keeps moisture better but it is adverse to using it as materials for containers of alcoholic liquid because of prone to leak. Low supply, difficult craft in barrel making and tendency of leaking, all these factors are the causes of high cost.

The strong favor and high cost are reasons for fully Mizunara oaked whisky being uncommon in market.(Please note that above “theory"is my conjecture by reading pieces of information from many sources. Don’t see it too serious)

Forget my paradox. Just talking about a Mizunara oaked whisky.

Yamazaki Mizunara Cask 2012 Edition, 700 ml, 48%

As aforesaid, fully Mizunara oaked whisky is uncommon in market. Yamazaki Mizunara Cask is a rare case which it is released on regular basis but so-called “regular release" means one batch a year and very limited in quantity. Goods just on shelve and all gone in minutes. This Yamazaki Mizunara Cask 2012 Edition I tasted was a sample. Don’t ask me about the price. I was just doing blind tasting.

Nose: Coconut, mango, passion fruit, rock sugar, new wood, essential oil, cream, vanilla
Palate: Nectar, coconut, mandarin peel, fresh wood, toast, anise, clover
Aftertaste: Long, mandarin peel, black coffee, toast
Conclusion: I did blind tasting for this dram and had no idea what it was. Neither it tasted like Sherry oaked nor Bourbon oaked whiskies, just impressed with its new wood and sandalwood alike aroma and did not realize it was the legendary Yamazaki Mizunara Cask until the veil lift. Other than that so-called Mizunara oak eastern Zen’s characteristics, its tropical fruits and new wood fragrance is really refreshing. Full body, rich, creamy, not refreshing as to smell, spices at the end enrich the complexity and balance. Long aftertaste with adequate bitterness and still fresh. This dram is of fruity and refreshing, balancing and smoothly, characters quite different from other oak aged whiskies but however, a very good whisky without a doubt.

Yamazaki Mizunara Cask 2012 Edition (photo copied from Internet)

環球美酒盡在 Sipping Malt 微醺之醉 www.sippingmalt.com

English version at page bottom

余市 Yoichi 二十年陳我之前介紹過了, 之前喝的兩個批次味道非常相近, 且喝喝看這一款我數年前買下近日才喝的批次又是怎麼樣。

Yoichi 余市 20 years, 700 ml, 52%

氣味: 檀木，鹹肉，堅果，朱古力醬，多士，肉桂，嘉應子
口味: 香燻，鹹肉，咖啡，煙葉，黑糖，肉桂
餘蘊: 中等長度，焦木，黑朱古力
結論: 很濃郁的氣味，有近似檀木的香燻，鹹鹹的肉香，還有甜中帶甘的朱古力，多士的帶焦烘焙，點點玉桂加添風味。酒體結實，還是木材燻的鹹肉，甘苦的咖啡，香醇的煙葉，甘甜的黑糖，未後香料點綴。餘蘊稍焦苦，但不過火。氣味香濃層次表現極佳，酒體結構佳，深厚豐富，餘蘊亦耐嚼，一等一的正斗好酒。這版本喝起來很不同，又是我的個人問題嗎?

English Version of Tasting Note

I had tasted two different batches of Yoichi 20 years old and introduced previously. Their portfolios are very similar. Let’s taste this bottle which was bought in few years ago.

Yoichi 20 years, 700 ml, 52%

Nose: Sandalwood, ham, nut, chocolate cream, toast, preserved plum, cinnamon
Palate: fragrance oil, ham, coffee, tobacco, raw sugar, cinnamon
Aftertaste: Medium length, roasted wood, dark chocolate
Conclusion: Rich on nose, some sandalwood alike aroma, salty ham, bitter yet sweet chocolate, toasted smell, decorated by cinnamon. Solid body, wood smoked ham, bitter coffee, spicy tobacco, sweet raw sugar, seasoned by a bit of spicy at the end. Toasted and bitter aftertaste but not overly. Layered aroma, firm body with good structure, solid and rich, chewing aftertaste, an excellent whisky.

Yoichi 20 years

環球美酒盡在 Sipping Malt 微醺之醉 www.sippingmalt.com

English version at page bottom

我在前文分別介紹了羽生 Hanyu 的 Game 1, Game 2 及 Game 3, 現在到了我手上的最後一款 Game 4 了。其實 Game 系列已出到第五版，我相信仍然會再有新版的，當然亦會有完結的一日。可是這世上還有總類繁多的威士忌，來自不同的國家，不同的產區，不同的酒廠，不同的製程，不同的酒桶，不同的調配，不同的陳年，林林種種的不同變數交織起來，造就出千變萬化不同口味個別風格的生命之水，威士忌可真是玩不完的遊戲，令人玩味一生哦。

也順帶說一說 Game 4 的酒標，主題是火槍射擊比賽，那參賽者腰間繫有一瓶 Game 3，作為 Game 與 Game 酒標之間的連繫。

Hanyu 羽生 Game 2000/2012, Game Four, C# 9805, 700 ml, 59%
Cask: Rum wood finish
Nos. of bottle: 232

氣味: 葡萄乾，乾木頭，塑膠，甘草，土檸皮
口味: 糖柑桔，紅燈籠椒， 菠蘿，火藥，柑橘皮
餘蘊: 稍短，乾及鮮柑橘皮
結論: 這款酒的基調和前三款很近似，多多少少有點碳氫化合物和硫化物的味道，但不算是缺憾。這款酒有較多的柑橘元素，從氣味到餘蘊都有，但只是點綴，不搶味。Game 4 整體上較多果味，少了些烤炙的焦香元素，不複雜，算細緻，也是正斗的。

English Version of Tasting Note

I have previously introduced Game 1, Game 2 and Game 3, and now turn to the finale of this episode,  Game 4. In fact the current release of Game is the fifth edition and I believed there would have further releases, though it will end someday. Indeed there are many different whiskies in the world, coming from different countries, different districts, different distilleries, different productions, different barrels, different blending, different aging, and all these variables intermingle countless distinctive aqua vitae. Whisky is a never ending game for life.

Now we back to this Game 4. The main theme of label is musket shooting contest, showing a bottle of Game 3 hanging at the waist of the player, which expresses the linkage amongst Games’ label.

Nose: Raisin, dry wood, plastic. licorice ,Chinese lime peel
Palate: Preserved mandarin, red bell pepper, pineapple, firework, citrus peel
Aftertaste: A bit short, dried and fresh mandarin peels
Conclusion: The baseline is quite similar to the previous three Games, somehow hints of hydrocarbon and sulfide, but not account to a defect. This dram has more citrus elements but just to adorn, fruity, lesser roasted and tar favors, not too complex but detailing, a good whisky.

Hanyu 2000 Game Four C# 9805

Hanyu 2000 Game Four C# 9805

Hanyu 2000 Game Four C# 9805

環球美酒盡在 Sipping Malt 微醺之醉 www.sippingmalt.com

English version at page bottom

我在前文分別介紹了羽生 Hanyu 的 Game One 及 Game Two 後, 現在要介紹的, 當然就是 Game Three 了。

Hanyu 羽生 2000/2012, Game Three, C# 360, 700 ml, 57.5%
Cask type: Red Oak Heads Hogshead Finish
No. of bottle: 309

用作 Game Three 陳年的木桶, 和 Game Two 一樣, 前段未有提及, 過桶則是 Red Oak Heads Hogshead Finish, 即是將 hogshead 的頂端和底端木板換上 red oak。那, red oak 即是甚麼呢? 這款酒桶的 red oak, 就是 Quercus Rubra, 又稱為 northern red oak 或 champion oak。各位讀者請留意, 這 red oak Quercus Rubra, 可不是陳年威士忌常用的歐洲紅橡木製雪莉桶的 Quercus Robur, 兩個名字很相似, 我驟眼一看也幾乎看錯。 Quercus Rubra 一般用於傢俱和地板製作的原材料, 甚少用於製作陳年酒類的的木桶之用, 因為這種橡木的毛細孔(Pore)比較開放, 少有填充體(Tyloses), 用於做酒桶存酒的話, 會較易漏酒。

說過木桶, 也說一說酒標吧。

Hanyu 2000 Game Three C# 360

前文說過 Game 的酒標會有前一版酒標的元素在內, 這款 Game Three 的酒標, 是描述出現於 Game Two 酒標上的紋身東瀛漢子, 左手高舉一瓶 Game Two, 右手作壓制狀, 地面伏著一個類人生物, 真是不知道他們玩的是甚麼"遊戲"。後來翻查資料, 才知到他們是在"玩"相撲。算吧, 藝術呢家野, 我地真係識條鐵咩(香港地道語), 還是專心喝酒吧。

氣味: 塑膠, 煙火, 咖啡, 牛奶朱古力, 蜜柑, 消毒藥水
口味: 塑膠, 菠蘿, 冰糖, 柑橘皮, 紙皮, 朱古力
餘蘊: 中等長度，乾柑皮，烤木頭
結論: 氣味上帶點果甜, 有優質咖啡和朱古力的香氣, 伴隨著有機化合物的氣味, 但沒有違和感。酒體強勁有力,但不刺激, 比氣味上多了些水果元素, 還是有些塑膠和紙皮等非食物味道。中等長度的餘蘊, 有甘醇的果皮和焦香的味道。十分不錯的一款酒, 味道多元化, 雖則有些並不是人人會欣賞, 但整體上配合得頗和諧, 正斗的好酒。

English Version of Tasting Note

I have introduced Hanyu’s Game One 及 Game Two in previous articles and now the Game Three eventually.

Hanyu 2000/2012, Game Three, C# 360, 700 ml, 57.5%
Cask type: Red Oak Heads Hogshead Finish
No. of bottle: 309

There is no information about the barrel for first session’s aging but the finishing is Red Oak Heads Hogshead, i.e. replaced the top and bottom of original hogshead with red oak plates. The so-called red oak is Quercus Rubra, common names northern red oak and champion oak. Please note that this red oak Quercus Rubra is not that Quercus Robur which is commonly used for production of Sherry casks for aging whisky. Their names look very similar. Quercus Rubra is usually used as materials of making furniture and wooden floor. It is rarely used in making barrels for aging wines and spirits. Its wide-open pore in the growth rings and lacking of tyloses cause the tendency to leak if it used as materials of wine and spirit barrel.

Let’s change the topic to its label.

Hanyu 2000 Game Three C# 360

I have mentioned in the previous article that the label of Game does include some elements from the label of previous release. The label of Game Three, describes a tattooed Japanese male who had been appeared in the label of Game Two, holding a bottle of Game Two with his left hand and posting a repressing gesture by his right hand, facing a humanoid creature laying on the ground. I was really unable to imagine what “Game" were they playing. After checking the information, I realized that they were “playing" Sumo, a Japanese style wrestling. You know? This is art. I think I do better drink my whisky….

Nose: Plastic, fireworks, coffee, milk chocolate, satsuma orange, disinfectant
Palate: Plastic, pineapple, rock sugar, mandarin peel, carton, chocolate
Aftertaste: Medium length, dried mandarin peel, roasted wood
Conclusion: Fruit note, paired with fine coffee and chocolate, though accompanying with smell of chemicals, no offensive or imbalance feeling. Powerful at palate but not irritating, fruity than nose, plastic and carton those inedible substances persisting. Medium length aftertaste, mild bitterness of dried mandarin peel roasted wood. Rich in favor though some of the elements not appreciated by most people, harmony in portfolio, a good whisky indeed.

Hanyu 2000 Game Three C# 360

Hanyu 2000 Game Three C# 360

環球美酒盡在 Sipping Malt 微醺之醉 www.sippingmalt.com

English version at page bottom

我在前文"一場遊戲 A Game“中介紹過羽生 Hanyu 的 The Game 系列, 亦分享了 第一版 The Game 的酒評, 今次介紹的, 是其第二版, 姑且稱為 Game Two 吧。

Game Two 的酒標是日本浮世繪風, 描繪的一名滿是紋身的日本男子在下棋, 如果細心點看, 他所下的棋, 並非圍棋或日本將棋, 正正就是 Game One 酒標的國際象棋(西洋棋), 棋盤傍放有一瓶 Game One。其實由 Game Two 開始, 每款 Game 的酒標, 也會有前一款 Game 的酒標元素在內, 設計很有心思。

Hanyu 2000 C# 917 Game Two

Hanyu 2000 C#917

Hanyu 羽生 2000/20011, C# 917, Game Two, 700 ml, 59.4%
Cask type: 水楢組裝桶過桶 Mizunara Heads Hogshead finish
No. of bottles: 309

這款酒所用的酒桶有一點特別之處, 就是 Mizunara Head Hogshead finish。前段陳年所用的木桶類型沒有提及, 但個人主觀猜想應該會是 Bourbon hogshead, 而過桶的所謂 Mizunara Heads Hogshead, 我姑且將它譯為水楢組裝桶, 就是將酒桶的頂及/或底板換上水楢木板, 進行過桶。只是更換底面的木板, 比整個木桶拆開換上水楢木條簡單, 但只得底面兩片木板, 新木板的影響會較少。又有問題, 為甚麼不用整個的水楢桶呢? 這不外乎是桶源, 風格設定, 和成本的考慮, 有評論為全水楢桶的風味太強烈, 所以只用換板桶, 這方面我沒有確實的答案。

氣味: 鹹肉,甜的黑朱古力, 消毒藥水, 臭丸, 焦木, 木刨花
口味: 膠水, 微鹹, 提子(葡萄)味吹波糖, 硫化物, 煙草
餘蘊: 悠長, 微鹹, 咖啡渣, 硫化物
結論: 十分有趣的氣味, 尤其那見於男廁的消毒臭丸的氣味, 應該是近似樟樹類的香精油, 不算討厭, 唔….有趣吧, 那木刨花的氣味很清新, 其餘的元素也不錯。酒體強勁有力, 微鹹, 一些塑膠, 煙草, 糖果, 也是不錯的。悠長的餘蘊, 微鹹, 柔和烘焙焦苦和點點硫化物。很奇異的一款酒, 好些化學物元素, 不難喝, 可說有趣, 很難評分, 但其實頗細緻和結構不錯的, 水楢的風味, 我相信就是那近似臭丸樟腦和木刨花的氣味吧。這不是一款大眾化的酒,但我接受到這款酒,正斗的。

English Version of Tasting Note

I have introduced Hanyu’s The Game series in my previous article “A Game" and share the tasting note of the first release of this series. I now introduce the second release of The Game series, namely, Game Two.

The label of Game Two adopts Japanese Ukiyo-e style, a tattooed Japanese male playing the Chess. If you are looking the label in detail, you will find that the chess playing is neither Go nor Japanese chess shōgi, which is the western chess appeared in the Label of Game One. In additions, there is a bottle of Game one on the corner of the chess board. Since Game Two, the label contains the elements of the previous release. The label design is quite meticulous.

Hanyu 2000 C# 917 Game Two

Hanyu 2000 C#917

Hanyu 2000/20011, C# 917, Game Two, 700 ml, 59.4%
Cask type: Mizunara Heads Hogshead finish
No. of bottles: 309

The cask finish is quite special for this release, namely, Mizunara Heads Hogshead finish. I have no idea about the barrel for first part’s aging. I personally guess it be Bourbon hogshead. The so-called Mizunara Heads Hogshead is in fact a dump hogshead but just replaced the top and/or bottom plates with Mizunara oak plates. It is much simpler then re-structuring by inserting Mizunara oak stave, but however the wood effect would not too much with just the top and/or bottom plates. Another question, why not using whole Mizunara barrel? I have no definite answer but the reasons are nothing else but sources of barrel, style of the output or costs. Some comments that Mizunara oak’s favour is too strong and therefore it may the one of main reasons.

Nose: Ham, sweet dark chocolate, disinfectant, sterilizer, roasted wood, wood shaving
Palate: Plastic, salty, grape bubble gum, sulfide, tobacco
Aftertaste: Long, salty, coffee ground，sulfide
Conclusion: Very funny note, especially the smell of sterilizer in washroom, or said camphor wood essential oil, not offensive but….interesting, lovely wood shaving and the rest OK. Powerful at palate, aggressive, a bit salty, plastic, tobacco, candy, quite good. Long salty and soft toast bitterness with sulfide aftertaste. A strange dram, some chemical elements, not bad taste but just interesting, hard to score, however, good detailing and structure, not an everyone dram but fine to me.

環球美酒盡在 Sipping Malt 微醺之醉 www.sippingmalt.com

English version at page bottom

前文介紹過羽生 Hanyu 及其中的一款酒 “Nice Butt" , 說起羽生的威士忌, 現在已經成為了收藏品投資工具,羽生有兩個非常出名的瓶裝系列, 更是其中的表表者。第一個是啤牌(撲克牌)系列, 每款酒配一張啤牌, 一副啤牌有五十二隻, 還有兩隻小丑, 即是整個系列共五十四款酒。撇開價錢, 這系列的酒於數年間先後推出, 每款數量只有數百, 銷售渠道又有不同, 要集齊五十四款酒絕對非常困難, 尤其是最後的黑白小丑, 不是話有錢便買得到。當然, 所謂的困難只是視乎對貴的定義而言, 買東西不問價的, 一定買得到。羽生啤牌系列對我等草民來說, 實在是遙不可及的酒款。

羽生的另一個知名系列, 就是 Ichiro’s Malt 為日本信濃屋 Shinanoya 裝瓶的 Game 系列, 由二零零九年起, 每年推出一款, 現在已經出到第五款了。這系列之所以名為 Game, 是因酒標是以描繪不同的遊戲或競技的畫作為題。以收藏難度來看, 這系列很明顯比啤牌容易, 但亦非想像中那麼簡單, 尤其是首發的第一款"遊戲", 因為初初推出時炒風未至羽生, 很多的"遊戲"也被喝掉, 到數年後醒覺要"收臧", 才發現還流通市場的而渺渺無幾的了。

我現在要介紹的酒款, 正正就是收臧家眾類尋她千百度的首發遊戲, 俗稱的 Game One。翻查資料得知, Game One 是由 new American white oak 和 Bourbon 桶陳原酒調合, 應該不是單桶瓶裝。

Hanyu 羽生 2000/2009, Game One, 700 ml, 61.2%
Bottled for Shinanoya
No. of Bottle: 476

氣味: 蜜糖，紅蘋果，拖肥，奶茶，橙皮果醬
口味: 糖漿, 當心類中藥，黑茶，青檸皮，胡椒，刁草
餘蘊: 中等長度，乾柑皮，胡椒
結論: 前端有些酒精感, 頗甜, 全是點甜水果相關, 未後有奶和茶, 算是作平衡。 酒體有力, 中藥茶葉, 果皮香料, 以草本為主, 喜歡那清新的青檸皮, 口味帶點辛辣但不過火。中等長度的餘蘊, 以香料為主。很有趣的酒, 氣味充滿甜點的香氣, 但入口卻是不甜的草本, 酒體強勁帶點辛辣, 你可以說是不協調, 但喝起來又不覺有突兀感, 飲得過與正斗之間。

English Version of Tasting Note

A brief story to Hanyu distillery and one of its bottling have been introduced on previous article and mentioned that Hanyu’s whisky now becomes collectibles and investment vehicle. There are two famous Hanyu “collection" series. The first one is “Playing Card" series. There are total 54 bottlings to match 54 cards (including two Jokers). It is almost a mission impossible to collect the complete series. The money concern obviously is a big issue. The very limited released quantities and complicate sales channels also caused a barrier. The last bottlings, Black & White Joker is the most difficult target – anyone knows when and how was it released? One of the X-files in Whiksy history. However, the so-called “difficulty" is just depending on the definition of “expensiveness". Hanyu Cards series is indeed too remoteness to such ordinary people like me.

The another “Collection" series of Hanyu is the Games. The Games series is bottled by Ichiro Malt exclusively for Shinanoya. This series was firstly launched in 2009 and released one bottling each year. The current bottling for 2014 is the fifth release. The label of each release describes a specific game or contest that named The Games thereto. In the perspective of collectors, The Games is obviously an easier task comparing to The Cards but in fact The Games is by no mean a simple mission, especially for the first release. At the time being the first Game released in few years ago, Hanyu was not the target for collection and investment purposes and many of the bottles had been consumed. There are little left in the market when the collectors realized its value of “collection" thereafter.

The Hanyu whisky I now introduced is that long gone Game One, the first Game release. According to the information on the Internet, The Game One is blended with the whiskies aged in new American white oak and Bourbon barrel respectively. It is unlikely a single cask bottling.

Hanyu. 2000/2009, Game One, 700 ml, 61.2%
Bottled for Shinanoya
No. of Bottle: 476

Nose: Honey, red apple, toffee, milk tea (Hong Kong style), Orange Marmalade
Palate: Syrup, honey baked Chinese herb, black tea, lime peel, pepper, dill
Aftertaste: Medium length, dried mandarin peel, pepper
Conclusion: Slightly alcohol in front, quite sweet mixed candies and fruit, ended with milk tea for balancing. Powerful at palate, Chinese herb, tea and spicy, dominated by dried plant. very fresh lime peel, hot but not offensive. medium dry and spicy aftertaste. Interesting, sweet candy note but wood and herbal palate, powerful and hot. You can say that it is imbalance but no abrupt feeling while tasting, good whisky as concluded.

Hanyu 2000 Game One

環球美酒盡在 Sipping Malt 微醺之醉 www.sippingmalt.com

English version at page bottom

羽生，這名字令人想起筆名為梁羽生的武俠小說大師。我現在要介紹的羽生，是一所日本威士忌蒸餾廠和其同名威士忌的名字，Hanyu。

Hanyu 羽生蒸餾所，是由 Akuto 家族所建立。Akuto 的家族釀酒事業，源起於 1626 年於 Chichibu 秩父市建立的清酒業務。家族的第十九代傳人 Isouji 於 1941 年於 Hanyu 羽生市建立了一所蒸餾廠，當時仍然是二戰期間，物資理應非常短缺，但 Isouji 卻於當時建廠，不知是否另有故事。酒廠的正式牌照於 1946 年戰後才獲發出。

酒廠於八十年代添置了一對銅壺蒸餾器，生產傳統蘇格蘭風格的威士忌。羽生於 1990 年發行了一款名為 Chichibu 的單一麥芽威士忌, 向其家族事業的發源地致敬 (此 Chichibu 威士忌可不是今天的 Chichibu)。  羽生的單一麥芽威士忌是蘇格蘭的傳統風格， 採用優質材料和細緻工藝製作。

可惜的是, 羽生的命運和輕井沢相同, 同樣於千禧年停產, 同樣的敗於生不逢時, 走得太前。當時的市場, 仍然是由大眾化的調合威士忌主導, 未準備好接受羽生這種精品級的麥芽威士忌。

羽生於二零零四年正式閉廠, 買出營運設備和清酒的存貨。Akuto 家族的 Ichiro 先生買下威士忌的存酒, 他希望保存家族生意, 將來有朝一日重開酒廠, 東山再起。

Ichiro 很快便開了一間名為 Venture Whisky Limited 的新公司, 並隨即將買下的存酒裝瓶出售。他將產品重新包裝及市場定位, 將存酒款名為 “Ichiro Malt"。Ichiro Malt 很快便打出名堂, 受到國際市場的歡迎, 其後還嬴得好些國際性的掌項。Ichiro 於此開始了新的故事, 我將會於即將刊登的 Chichibu 秩父系列介紹, 屆時敬請收看。

現在羽生威士忌瓶裝仍會間中推出市場, 但今時今日羽生已經成為了備受追捧的熱門威士忌, 第一手正價酒款甫一上架(網),迅即售清。羽生在拍賣行亦開始走紅, 近期香港多場拍賣, 羽生的得標價亦甚高。

現在的羽生, 和輕井沢一樣, 已經幾乎開不下手, 成為了收贓品和投資投機的商品了。酒釀出來, 應該是用來喝的, 但近年威士忌炒風趨盛, 很多以往喝得起還喝過的酒, 現在已經變得高不可攀, 窮酒 L 如我等的, 只能望酒空歎, 呢喃著千金難買早知道, 早知道則賺萬金。

不說那麼多了, 還是介紹一款幸運地喝到的羽生威士忌吧。

Hanyu 羽生 1988/2008, C# 9307, 534 bottles, 700 ml, 55%
Bottling for Full Proof Europe

Full Proof Europe 是威士忌愛好者 Jeroen Koetsier 買桶裝瓶酒款的名號, 一系列由 Hans Dillesse 設計的酒標, 充滿了西方漫畫風格帶性感意味的日本浮世繪….(其實我也不知道我自己在說甚麼), 就以這款暱稱 “Nice Butt" 的酒標, 即是呢….還是由讀者們自己領略吧。

氣味：塑膠，黑棗，焦油，朱古力，甘草，雪茄盒
口味：拖肥，朱古力，焦油，甘草糖，煙燻箱，黑茶，塑膠
餘蘊：中等長度，焦木，炭燒咖啡，焦糖，藥草
結論：帶糖果的香甜，朱古力和茶葉的甘醇，又有甘草的清涼，亦有煙草和煙燻的薰香，但又有石油副產品的重口味，組合上比較另類，但卻又沒有令人不悅的違和感。氣味濃郁芳香，酒身豐厚有力，複雜多層次，非常精彩。只是那石油副產品的味道由頭帶到尾，餘蘊又有點過苦，不是人人喜歡的，但我口味比例另類，我喜歡，正斗之作。

English Version of Tasting Note

Hanyu is the name of a Japanese whisky distillery and its whisky label. The founder family of Hanyu Distillery, Akuto was original running the Sake business. The family company was established in 1626 in the town of Chichibu. The 19^th generation of the family, Isouji Akuto built a spirit factory in Hanyu city and commenced production in 1941 while official license was granted in 1946.

In the 1980’s, Hanyu installed a pair of pot stills and began the production of Scotch style whisky. In 1990, Hanyu launched single malt whisky named Chichibu which saluted to the origin of Akuto family business. The single malt of Hanyu was truly traditional Scotch style. Hanyu used the top grade of materials and finest craft in production of its malt whisky.

Unfortunately, Hanyu’s fate is somehow similar to Karuizawa. Hanyu stopped production in 2000, too. The cause of its failure is also similar to Karuizawa. The market was not ready to accept such a premium malt whisky. The market was still dominated by commercial blended whiskies at that time.

Hanyu was closed in 2004. The operation and stock of sake were sold. Mr. Ichiro, the heir of Akuto family, who has brewery academic background and had been worked for Suntory, acquired the remaining stock of Hanyu whisky on his own. He hoped to retain his family business and planed to re-open the distillery in the future.

Mr. Ichiro has founded a new company named Venture Whisky Limited in no time and subsequently starting to bottle the old stock for selling. He repacked and marketed the Hanyu whisky and named “Ichiro’s Malt". The Ichiro’s Malt earned reputation from the worldwide market and won some remarkable international awards. It is another story of Mr. Ichiro and I will tell in upcoming “Chichibu" series. Stay tuned.

At present, bottlings of Hanyu whisky are intermittently releasing to the market. Hanyu whisky now is hot in the market. Upon new bottling on shelf, stocks all gone just in minutes. Hanyu whisky is hot in auction houses, too. Most Hanyu whiskies were needed high price for hammer down in recent auctions in Hong Kong.

Hanyu whisky now becomes the collectibles and investment products. Prices of whisky are rising fast in recent years. Every time when I saw the labels which was affordable and tasted in past but now can only miss the good old days.

I will become rich if I knew before…..OK, introduce a Hanyu whisky, shall I?

Hanyu 1988/2008, C# 9307, 534 bottles, 700 ml, 55%
Bottling for Full Proof Europe

Full Proof Europe is the label of bottlings of owner cask for a whisky enthusiast Jeroen Koetsier and a series of label is designed by Hans Dillesse. The label design is inspired by Ukiyo-e but in Western comic style with sexual innuendo….(In fact I don’t know what I am talking about). As to the label of this dram, nick name “Nice Butt", that….well, better you guys imagine it.

Nose: Plastic, dried black date, tar, chocolate, licorice, cigar box
Palate: Toffee, chocolate, tar, liquorice,  smokery, black tea, plastic
Aftertaste: Medium length, burnt wood, charred coffee, caramel, herb
Conclusion: Candy sweetness, chocolate and tea nutty and herbal bitterness, licorice refreshing, tobacco smoking, weird petroleum byproducts, somehow an unusual combination of  favors but no explicit unpleasant imbalance。Rich in smell, strong in body, complex and layered, brilliant. However, not everyone likes those full course petroleum favor and a bit overly bitterness in aftertaste, I like it nevertheless. Very good dram to me such a weird guy.

P.S. This piece of article looks familiar? Yes, I write articles occasionally for some friends of mine who run wine and spirit business. Some or part of articles may be used for their business. I am lazy to write a new.

Hanyu 羽生 1988/2008, C# 9307

Hanyu 羽生 1988/2008, C# 9307

環球美酒, 盡在 Sipping Malt 微醺之醉 www.sippingmalt.com

羽生, 輕井澤, 梵高。共通點是, 在世時不受世人的庸俗眼光欣賞。作品賣不好,  潦倒一生。離留後才被庸俗的世人追捧…..

hanyu-13-years-old-smws-1312

東亞酒造的羽生蒸溜所在1946年建立, 2000年遇上經營危機, 賣廠易手。買家決定關廠及棄掉倉儲的四百桶威士忌。羽生蒸溜所後人伊知郎Ichiro, 集資買回羽生的原酒, 及後在歐洲推出啤牌系, 大放異彩。

執了笠的羽生和輕井澤的高質素威士忌, 飲一支少一支, 在港日台市面已難尋縱影。近來的拍賣價亦屢創新高。幾千萬的畫作, 幾十萬的威士忌, 當然是好東西。不過當中有很大部份是用來買歷史, 背景, 話題, “品味", “型格"。
身為一個庸俗的飲家, 當然找一些關門廠的酒來自我感覺良好一下。

131.2 SMWS Magic Carpet in a sweetie shop
13 years First fill sherry butt
ABV 55.1%

Nose: 片糖, 夏枯草, 八角, 煙灰, 黑色香草橡皮糖, 焦木, 燒檀香, 燴蕃薯
Mouth: 甜, 濃厚, 煙薰, 乾木, 炒栗子, 提子乾, 烤多士
Finish: 中短, 炒栗子, 夏枯草, 烤多士

大致感覺是秋日的炒栗子檔, 栗子在黑糖沙中滾動的味道。
13年陳雪利桶, 主調鮮明, 以焦糖系甜香為中心。配以烤木, 乾草, 非常迷人~~
香味細緻, 夏枯草, 八角, 香草橡皮糖等獨特風味, 為焦香增添更多個性。
可惜餘韻比較短, 在口中的焦香很快就離開了。而香氣偏重焦木香, 略欠平衡。
透過SWMS總算一探羽生的神秘面紗, 這單桶有個性, 香味豐富細緻。雖欠平衡, 但飲獨立裝瓶廠(IB)單桶酒的, 平衡不是一個考慮吧。不過餘韻短就比較可惜了…..

總體而言, 131.2是一支好酒, 香味特別! 但羽生單桶的價錢非比沉常, 有機會的話一試無妨~~

PS. 傳說Ichiro’s Malt 有推出混有羽生和秩父的標準酒, 下次再為大家介紹一下~~